The Battle of the Bulge
Belgium and Luxembourg, Christmas, 1944
This page covers tours to the Ardennes area of Belgium and Luxembourg, where the Battle of the Bulge took place during the winter of 1944/45. There is a short description of the places and sites to see at the top of the first section, with more detailed explanations of the history and where the sites you want to visit fit into the overall battle. The furthest battlesites apart in the area covered by the Battle of the Bulge are all within about two hour's driving of each other. The list of sites to visit below is not a complete list of all of the places you can visit and if there is somewhere off-list that interests you, please do not hesitate to ask.
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PanzerGrenadier, Ardennes, Dec 44
Visit the sites of the battle of the Bulge in Eastern Belgium where Hitler launched the last German offensive of World War Two in a desperate gamble to bring the Western Allied Armies to a compromise peace. Follow the route of Battlegroup Peiper, the spearhead thrust of the First SS Panzer Division. Go past the crossroads south east of Malmedy where on the 17th of December 1944 86 men of the 285th Field Artillery Observation Battalion were murdered by SS soldiers. Follow the steep, winding lanes to the site where only a few American soldiers managed to stop the capture of a fuel dump by German panzers by pouring a river of burning fuel down the road. Then go on up to the village of La Gleize where Peiper’s tanks were finally brought to a halt. Here you will find beside the local museum a King Tiger Tank which still bears the scars of the anti tank gun shells that failed to penetrate its frontal armour plate.

American forces advancing through the snow
On the way down to Bastogne you can pass through the village of Houffalize where Patton’s 3rd Army was meant to meet with Montgomery’s offensive coming down from the north to cut off the German advance. Here you will find one of the Panther tanks left behind by the German Army as they retreated in January of 1945. The World War Two museum in Bastogne, the town where the 101st Airborne division was encircled for five days at Christmas in 1944, is also a good place to visit with an audiovisual presentation of the battle as well as artefacts and photos of the fighting. There are also the fighting positions that were used around the town and you can visit the village of Foy, just to the north of Bastogne where Easy Company from the television series “Band of Brothers” fought and froze and you will see why the whole 101st Airborne Division earned the nickname “The Battered Bastards of Bastogne”. You can also visit the American Military cemetery in Luxembourg, just south east of Bastogne where General Patton lies with over 5,000 soldiers, many of whom died as part of his 3rd Army as they fought north to relieve the beleaguered soldiers in Bastogne
Sights/Sites to see
The Southern Shoulder of the Bulge:
Bastogne

Heading out to the line, Bastogne
Bastogne is the name that most people think of when they hear of the Battle of the Bulge, and this small town is situated just thirty kilometers (twenty miles) from the German border, then the front line. The town is a major crossroads giving access in all directions to a first class road network and was defended mainly by the 28th Infantry Division which had seen continuous fighting from 22 July to 19 November, before being assigned to this relatively quiet area. The Allies believed only an infantry division was present opposite the 28th Infantry, and they believed any attack along this sector would be limited in scale. When attacked by an entire German Army on the 16th of December and outnumbered 20 to 1, this veteran Division fell back in disarray. Despite this, the Germans were significantly delayed in their timetable of advance and it wasn't until the 19th of December that Bastogne itself first came under attack.

Airdrop re-supply, Bastogne, Christmas 44
But Eisenhower had been busy and on the evening of the 17th of December the XVIII Airborne Corps was ordered into 'the Bulge' from their reserve area in western France. The 82nd Airborne Division moved first so when reserves were called for to oppose SS Colonel Peiper's Advance (see below) in the north, they were the closest and were sent there by default. Thus, when the importance of Bastogne and the need to reinforce the town was recognized the other Airborne Division, the 101st, was moved in there. They had arrived by the morning of the 19th of December and moved into position that day occupying positions all around the town. By the next morning the town was under attack by the Germans but after their initial assaults on the town had been sharply rebuffed by the Paratroopers and other mixed troops in position, the main German force continued on their offensive further to the west, completing their encirclement of the town by the morning of December the 21st. The Paratroopers were to occupy these positions for the next three weeks.

Gathering in the supply drop, Bastogne
Although the German offensive to the west continued for a further ten days after the encirclement, the denial of this crucial road junction meant the attacking columns were forced to use much less direct, smaller roads that were often little more than dirt tracks. After the initial passage of the German armour the roads were often unusable by the supply trucks that were meant to follow. Bastogne was more of a festering sore than a thorn on the side of the German southern advance. When the Commander of the surrounding German forces gave an offer of honourable surrender to the American defenders, the Commander, General McAuliff famously replied “Nuts” (after several other possible words to use were turned down). While the German attacks continued over the next few days the Paratroopers ran critically low on ammunition, food and medical supplies, but finally, the weather finally cleared allowing the Americans to fly in supplies and medical staff.

The Bastogne Memorial, Belgium
In Bastogne you can visit the Bastogne Museum and walk around the Memorial to the defense of the town. Scattered through the village you will be shown various positions were the fighting was taking place during the siege and the many memorials and monuments to these soldiers. You can also have a drink at the “Nuts” Cafe, named in honour of Gen McAuliffe's reply to the German surrender offer.
Easy Company/Band of Brothers in Bastogne
You will be driven out to the Bois Jacques to the positions that Easy Company of the 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment occupied during their part in the defense of the town. The fox-holes are still there to be seen, much shallower now than in 1944 but still clearly visible. You will hear their story of the defense of Bastogne and their later part in the American attacks into the villages of Foy, Noville and beyond as the American forces pushed north in January of 1945 to pinch out the German salient in the Allied front line.
Patton Breaks into Bastogne

'First in Bastogne'
General Patton had meanwhile swung his 3rd American Army north from their positions in the Saar region to the south and was attacking the Germans in the south of the Bulge. He finally broke through to Bastogne on December the 26th after a record breaking run by his Army. Apart from needing to evacuate their casualties, the Paratroopers always claimed that did not need to “Rescued”, just “Supplied” in Bastogne. This was not the end however, as the Paratroopers went back over to the attack on January the 9th staying in the fight until relieved on January the 18th.

US M-10 Tank Destroyer
You will be driven into the town along the advance route taken by General Patton's relieving force and shown the positions occupied by the German defenders and the positions the American were attacking from. As you come into the town you will see the spot where the lead American tank met the defenders and hear the story of their rather tentative first meeting.
American Military Cemetery Luxembourg

American Military Cemetery Luxembourg
It is here in the tranquil surroundings of the American Military Cemetery of Luxembourg that those who died during the fighting in the Ardennes in the winter of 1944 are buried, among them many of the Paratroopers of the Airborne Divisions that fought here in 1944. Here there is also the grave of General Patton, commander of the 3rd American Army, who died in Germany on the 21st of December 1945. He is buried at the head of those of his relieving force who paid the ultimate price to buy the Freedom and Democratic Principles of the Western World today.
The Northern Shoulder of the Bulge:
The advance of the 1st SS Panzer Division

SS troops, The Ardennes, Winter 1944
The 6th SS Panzer Army were poised along the northern section of the Ardennes Front. They were to attack first west, then turn north-west and capture Antwerp. The Spearhead of the SS Army was to be Kampfgruppe Peiper. Made up of dedicated Nazi soldiers taken from the 1st SS Panzer Division's Armoured Regiment, this group of 3,000 men was tasked with leading the way to Antwerp. Despite the protests of the German high command to the contrary, the Battlegroup's leader, SS Colonel Jochen Peiper had stated that his force was capable and would carry out it's assigned mission. Peiper had been warned that his main problem would be fuel- the Germans simply did not have enough to give him and he was told he would have to rely on capturing American suppy dumps along his route. The attack kicked off on the morning of the 16th of December 1944, but was opened by an infantry attack of Elite German Paratroopers, not the tanks of the main task force.
Lanzerath and the 394th Regimental I&R Platoon

German dead in front of US positions
It was here on the 16th of December 1944 that one platoon of 18 men managed to hold up this Armoured SS Spearhead advance for one day. This delay was to be of crucial importance in buying time to allow the American Army to draw up a cohesive defense line further back and for reinforcements to be brought in. In the desperate defense of their positions, the men of the I&R Platoon burned out may weapons though over-use and the German casualties piled up in front of the. They exacted a heavy price from the Germans- over 500 casualties suffered attacking this group of 17 men. But the price paid by the Americans for this self-sacrifice was also high- 17 of the 18 American soldiers involved were killed, wounded or captured in this action. Here you will see the positions occupied by these men and where the attacks from the Germans came in, finally overwhelming these few American soldiers when they ran out of ammunition. Although not officially recognized until 1981, when a very belated After-action report and recommendation for awards were finally filed by the Platoon's Commanding Officer, they eventually were awarded 3 Distinguished Service Crosses and fourteen Silver and Bronze Stars making them the most decorated Platoon in US army history.
The SS Advance

US PoW's march past a German Tank
The morning after the American Positions at Lanzerath had been over-run by the German Paratroopers, the German Battlegroup moved out. Resistance at first was light and the Germans bypassed trouble spots to get to Bullingen where they knew there was a US Fuel dump. Owing to their rapid advance, the German tanks arrived in Bullingen when the American troops were lining up for their breakfast. Surprise was complete and the town, the fuel dump and most of the American soldiers there were captured without a fight. the Germans forced their recently captured American prisoners to re-fuel their tanks, although Peiper knew he had not captured all the fuel he would need. The dump here was only a small forward area refuelling dump. He needed a large supply depot and intended to get one. Having resupplied all their veehicles, the column again moved off heading south-west to Modersheid. Passing through the town, again against negligible resistance, the armoured spearhead moved on towards Ligneuville. Here, however, they ran into trouble, not caused by the Allies, but by Hitler's inability to read a map.
The Malmedy Massacre

SS troops on the advance to Malmedy
Believing his Generals to be both incompetent and untrustworthy, Hitler had drawn up the plan for the Ardennes offensive himself, down to assigning specific roads to specific advance groups. However, the road assigned to Battlegroup Peiper from Modersheid to Ligneuville turned into a very steep and muddy track, completely unsuited to an armoured advance. When the advancing Panzer Mk IV's got stuck (the Panzer Mk IV was the lightest of Peiper's tanks at only 32 tons, comparable to the Allied Sherman), Peiper knew he would never get his heavier Panther and King Tiger tanks along the road, so he ordered a detour. Although this took him onto the 12th SS Panzer Division advance route, Peiper knew they were still miles behind trying to break through the lines held by the veteran 1st and 2nd American Infantry Divisions. They were advancing along the road to the Baugnez crossroads where they would again turn back onto their assigned route. The Baugnez crossroads was located about one and a half miles (two kilometers) south-east of the town of Malmedy.

US PoW's, Ardennes
As the Germans were approaching the crossroads at about midday on the 17th of December, elements of the 285th Artillery Observation Battalion based in Malmedy had been ordered to withdraw to the west and as they went through the Baugnez crossroads they ran into the lead tanks of Peiper's column. Machine gun fire from the lead tanks was sufficient to stop the American trucks and force the surrender of the column, the PoW's being moved into a field beside the road near the junction. Hitler had ordered “Waste no time on prisoners”. This was interpreted by most German soldiers that they were to disarm prisoners and send them to the rear unguarded, but to the SS, used to fighting under different rules in Russia, this meant execution.

The Dead of the Malmedy Massacre
As the tanks and armoured half tracks of Peiper's column drove past the American prisoners, a German soldier pulled out his pistol and fired. The PoW's were ordered by an Officer to Hold Fast. Running would give these Nazi soldiers a legitimate reason to gun them down. A reason was not needed however, as this first shot was taken as a signal to open fire by the other SS soldiers present and 86 soldiers were shot. After finishing off any survivors with a pistol the Nazi's then shot the Belgian locals who lived in the few houses and one cafe clustered around the crossroads before they moved on. Here you will be driven along the advance route initially taken by the SS before they were forced to turn back. You will see today that the road is much as it was in 1944, still made up of mud and gravel. Then you will be driven back along the diversionary road Peiper's column was forced to take and where they ran into the fleeing American trucks. You will then be shown the field into which the prisoners were herded before being shot, and the memorial to those who died nearby.
Stavelot and the Flaming Road-block

The Bridge at Stavelot
Leaving the crossroads at Baugnez, Peiper's Group pushed on to Ligneuville where the town and bridge over the river were secured after a brief skirmish with the few American soldiers there. Peiper waiter here until 5pm as his column had got strung-out on the road. Again in proper fighting order, the Kampgruppe moved out to Stavelot where there was known to be a fuel dump. The dump he had captured at Bullingen early that morning had been small and insufficient for Peiper's needs. Although the fuel dump at Stavelot was known to contain over four million liters (one million gallons) and was so large that it was spread out over twenty hectares (fifty acres) of forest, Peiper did not know it's size or that it contained enough fuel to carry the entire German SS Panzer Army to Antwerp.

Knocked out German Panther
However, as the German attackers approached the bridge into the town, the lead Panther hit a mine and was disabled and a pack howitzer was fired at the other two tanks. Although the pack howitzer had hardly the strength to scratch the paint on a tank, the Germans mistook it and the destroyed Panther as a sign that the town was well defended. With dusk approaching, the Germans pulled back and dug in for the night. By the next morning the assorted American units present organized the best defense they could but when the Germans attacked the following day, they quickly over-ran the town. As the Germans spread out through the town, the Americans retreated.

Foxholes in the Snow
As one of the tank columns climbed the road towards the fuel dump, a Company of the 526th Armoured Infantry Battalion poured fuel out onto the road and ignited it. With no turn-off's on the steep and narrow road, the Germans pulled back and resumed their advance. By the time they had finished, the Americans had burned over six hundred thousand liters (one hundred and twenty five thousand gallons) of fuel. However, as part of the 30th American Infantry Division moved down from the north later that evening to try and recapture Stavelot, they found their only path into the town blocked by the Flaming Barrier set up earlier by the Armoured Infantry. It was the next afternoon of December the 19th before the fire had died down enough to move past and attack the town behind. This attack was successful and the bridge over the river was then blown up, cutting both the German supply line forwards and possible withdrawal to the rear.

German Panther tank, the Ardennes
Here you will see the defensive positions taken by the American Forces and the route taken by the tanks as they fought into the town, see how the battle developed before being driven up the road the Burning Road-block had once closed to the Germans.
The Bridges at Trois Ponts

Moving an Anti-tank gun into Position
Leaving Stavelot behind him, Peiper turned left heading for the village of Trois Ponts. As the name implies, this village was of crucial importance to him as the three bridges the town was centered on were needed to keep him on route. As the lead tanks approached the town at about noon on December 17th, they were fired on by an American anti-tank gun. The Germans returned the American fire and knocked out the gun, and with the sound of the rumble of demolition charges signaling the 51st Engineer Combat Battalion destroying the bridges, the remaining Americans then withdrew. However as the Germans moved on with infantry, With his main route again blocked Peiper was forced to take another detour, this time north-east in the direction of the village of La Gleize.
La Gleize

US soldier beside a captured Panther
By moving into La Gleize, Peiper had taken a huge detour north from his planned route and was by also running low on fuel. As he pushed through La Gleize against little opposition, the Germans found themselves halted in the afternoon of December 18th by elements of the 30th Infantry Division and also other elements of the 82nd Airborne Division. Peiper's attacking force had been stopped at the eastern outskirts of Stoumont, the next village to the west, more by a lack of fuel to press the attack than anything else and the were forced to withdraw back to La Gleize. These Allied troops were only the first reinforcements to have been moved down from General Simpson's 9th Army to bolster the American defense.

American Shelling of German Positions
With no Allied fuel dumps known to be in the area, and unable to move his armour without re-supply, Peiper was forced to halt his main force here while waiting for German supply trucks to move up. Around La Gleize Peiper put out blocking forces along the road to the north and sent small reconnaissance forces south and east to try and find another road to use when the fuel arrived. Peiper never found out that if he had sent his blocking force on the Spa-Francochamps five hundred meters further north they would have discovered the largest American fuel dump in Belgium, with more than eight million liters (two million gallons) of fuel completely unguarded.

German King Tiger in La Gleize today
Peiper's reconnaissance parties were unable to find another route with bridges strong enough to carry the weight of the tanks, and thus the SS Battlegroup was immobilised in position in La Gleize. When, on December the 19th, Peiper was informed that the American 30th Division had blown the bridge in Stavelot behind him, he finally realized that there would be neither re-supply, further advance or even withdrawal. Although he remained in the village for a further four days under constant American artillery fire and intermittent infantry attack, no supplies were to reach Peiper's group and he was forced to withdraw back to German lines on Dec 23rd. Less than 800 of his original forces of 3,000 men got back to their own lines but all of the vehicles of Kampfgruppe Peiper had to be destroyed as the retreating Germans could not bring them with them.







